Alan and Jonna's trekking trip to Tibet

Jonna and Alan took a three week trip to China this August, primarily to go trekking in Tibet. Jonna then spent an additional two weeks going to India afterwards. We both flew to Beijing together and then spent a rainy day playing tourist there. We then flew to Lhasa in Tibet. We spent three days in Lhasa, then left for a 12 day trip into Far Western Tibet. We drove from Lhasa to Shigatse to Lhartse to Saga to Puryang to Darchen. We stopped at the Tashilingo and Sakye monasteries on the way out. We then spent three days at Mt. Kailash and Lake Manasarovar, including visiting the Chiu monastery. We then drove back from Darchen to Puryang to Saga to Lhartse to Lhasa. We then spent five more days in Lhasa, including visiting the Samye monastery. From there we flew back to Beijing where we had a day to to a bicycle trip to the Great Wall. Then Alan flew back to the US. Jonna spent two more days in Beijing doing a bicycle tour through the hutongs and visiting the Temple of Heaven. She then flew to Delhi, where she had day exploring Old Delhi, the Gandhi Museum and wandering around the new part of the city. Then she took the train to Dharamsala in northern India. She spent one week there, before taking the train back to Delhi and then flying back to the US.

Here are some of our photos from the trip. (Because of the length of this trip, I am breaking the photos up into several different pages. This seventh section is from our final five days in Lhasa.)

1) Before we left Lhasa for Mt. Kailash, Jonna commissioned a tankha from a talented young artist. The tankha was finished when we got back and it was stunning. Here is Jonna with the artist and his painting. It was eventually framed with fancy brocade cloth.

2) We rejoined our friend Holly in Lhasa and then immediately did a day trip to the monastery of Samye. This is the oldest monastery in Tibet, originally built around 700 AD. Our trip entailed a four hour bus ride followed by a one hour ferry ride. Monks from all over Tibet and China come to Samye, so half the passengers on the ferry were monks as evidenced by this photo.

3) This is the main temple at Samye. Many of the surrounding temples and stupas were destroyed in the 1960s but are now being rebuilt. This temple is dedicated to Padmasambava and there are many beatiful statues of him inside.

Samye is the seat
Hepo hill is right next door
The root of my faith

4) Pilgrims leave small donations everywhere in temples. In this case, they have been slid into the door jams of one of the chapels. This photo also shows the typically rich decoration found on all the walls, doors, cabinets and shrines inside the temples. (Photographs are not allowed inside but this door was on an external walkway. Thus it is the closest example I have of what the inside of the temples often look like).

5) The entire wall surrounding the Samye monastery complex is topped by these small stupas. This is an artsy shot trying to super impose the wall and stupas with the clear blue sky.

6) Consider this Samye Road, rather than Abbey Road. Jonna, Holly and myself did part of the kora around Samye. Here are Jonna and Holly turning the prayer wheels as they walk the kora.

7) There were four stupas placed at the four corners of the main temple in Samye. These were destroyed in the '60s but have recently been rebuilt. Each is painted a different color: Green, White, Red and Black. I thought the black one looked particularly striking with the valley as a background.

8) One of the interesting thing about Tibet in general and Lhasa in particular is that all businesses are run out of these little garage enclosures on the first floor of buildings. ...and I mean every business. This is a dentist's office!

9) For our final day we visited the Tibet Museum in Lhasa. We knew ahead of time that it would be a challenge because of the political spin contained inside but we felt we should see it anyway. It turned out to be disappointing in many ways. First, the political propoganda about Chinese involvement in Tibet prior to 1950 and the numerous references to the "peaceful liberation" were nauseating. However, equally sickening was to see all the amazing religious relics on display and then realize they were acquired by the ransacking of monasteries. You can get an interesting glimpse into some of the history and culture of Tibet here but I think the negatives ultimately outweigh the positives.

10) In addition to the garages, the native Tibetans (who can't always afford space in a building) also do business on the streets of Lhasa. This is a butcher. The meat is butchered down on the street surface, lying on a piece of cardboard and chopped up with a hatchet. No sign is necesssary, the head of the animal currently being sold is on display so you know what you're buying and how fresh it is. Yum! Sure made Alan sorry he is a vegetarian!

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Alan Fleming